locations
la Gorgette
Wonderwall
Hatta Crag
Wadi Daykah
Wadi Hilti
Al Hamra Towers
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The major crags
- La Gorgette
Possibly the best crag in the region
~40 bolted routes from F4 to F8b on beautiful water-smoothed canyon rock, with some tufa. At the top end of Wadi Bani Auf below the pretty village of Bilad Sayt. link to topo at omanclimbing.com (may need to register to view the topo)
- Wonderwall
Some exceptional wall routes
~50 bolted routes from F4 to F7b on sharp, mostly vertical open limestone faces but some steep routes also. In the hills south-east of Al Ain. slightly out-of-date PDF topo
- Hatta Crag
Upside-down fun
~40 bolted routes from F4+ to F7a on very steep juggy rock. Windy and relatively cool in summer. In the hills between Hatta and Al Madam.
PDF topo
- Wadi Daykah
Extensive Euro-style pockety rock
~50 bolted routes from F4 to F7b on open wadi faces. Near Quiryat.
link to topo at omanclimbing.com (may need to register to view the topo)
- Hadash
High-altitude rock
~20 bolted routes from F5 to F7a+ on open mountain face, cold in winter. In Wadi Mistall near Nakhal.
link to topo at omanclimbing.com (may need to register to view the topo)
- Kubrah Canyon
More new stuff close to Muscat
~20 bolted routes from F5 to F6c in a deep open wadi, still being developed, plus some good bouldering. Left of the road from Burka to Nakhal
link to topo at omanclimbing.com (may need to register to view the topo)
Other UAE places
- Jebel Fayah
Three bolted routes, F5 to F6a on a hill between Dhaid and Madam. No longer being developed.
- Roadside Crag
Three bolted routes, F6c to F7c, on a crag on the way up to Wadi Bih from RAK. link to topo at the uaeclimbing blog
- The Cleavage
About five bolted routes, F5 to F7a, in a small canyon left of the under-construction resort road left of the entrance to Wadi Bih. No topo.
- Dickinadozer
Several bolted routes, F5 upwards on the large cliff opposite the Cleavage, still being developed. Will be a major venue. No topo yet.
- Disc World
Some moderate F4 - F5 routes near the entrance to Wadi Bih.
link to topo at the uaeclimbing blog
- Cascade Circus
Two excellent two-pitch routes around F6c within Wadi Bih. No topo, but routes are obvious and the crag is in the Al Stark guide.
- Spice World
One excellent but badly-bolted F7b+, and a F8a, within Wadi Bih. The F7b+ route and crag is in the Al Stark guide, the F8a is undocumented.
- Bend in the Road
Two short routes F7a and F7c+, within Wadi Kaba Shamsi. Routes and crag are in the Al Stark guide.
- Wadi Hilti
Five good routes F5+ to F7b+, close to Wadi Kaba Shamsi, on good water-polished rock. link to topo at the uaeclimbing blog
- Tawiyan
Hidden cliff in a pristine atmospheric canyon, routes from F6b+, still being developed. No topo yet.
Other Oman places
- Coco Canyon
Three multi-pitch sport routes, F6a+ to F7b on the right side of Wadi Bani Auf, 16 km from the start of the wadi
- Al Hamra Towers
One multi-pitch sport route, F7a+ amidst trad routes on these spectacular towers overlooking Al Hamra town.
- Wadi Adia
A few bolted climbs amongst trad near Muscat. Routes and crag are in the McDonald guide.
- the Musandum beach crag
Several unnecessarily-bolted cracks routes to F6b by a beach, 5 minutes boat ride from Khasab or a longer hike. Bring cams and bolt-chopping gear!
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