Sport Climbing in the UAE and Oman

This is a list of the main sport crags in the UAE and Oman, with links to topos where available. I thought this might be useful, whilst the available guides for both countries remain out of date and trad-orientated.

Locations of most of the crags are shown in this Google MyMap.


locations


la Gorgette


Wonderwall


Hatta Crag


Wadi Daykah


Wadi Hilti


Al Hamra Towers

The major crags

  • La Gorgette
    Possibly the best crag in the region
    ~40 bolted routes from F4 to F8b on beautiful water-smoothed canyon rock, with some tufa. At the top end of Wadi Bani Auf below the pretty village of Bilad Sayt.
    link to topo at omanclimbing.com (may need to register to view the topo)

  • Wonderwall
    Some exceptional wall routes
    ~50 bolted routes from F4 to F7b on sharp, mostly vertical open limestone faces but some steep routes also. In the hills south-east of Al Ain.
    slightly out-of-date PDF topo

  • Hatta Crag
    Upside-down fun
    ~40 bolted routes from F4+ to F7a on very steep juggy rock. Windy and relatively cool in summer. In the hills between Hatta and Al Madam.
    PDF topo

  • Wadi Daykah
    Extensive Euro-style pockety rock
    ~50 bolted routes from F4 to F7b on open wadi faces. Near Quiryat.
    link to topo at omanclimbing.com (may need to register to view the topo)

  • Hadash
    High-altitude rock
    ~20 bolted routes from F5 to F7a+ on open mountain face, cold in winter. In Wadi Mistall near Nakhal.
    link to topo at omanclimbing.com (may need to register to view the topo)

  • Kubrah Canyon
    More new stuff close to Muscat
    ~20 bolted routes from F5 to F6c in a deep open wadi, still being developed, plus some good bouldering. Left of the road from Burka to Nakhal
    link to topo at omanclimbing.com (may need to register to view the topo)

Other UAE places

  • Jebel Fayah
    Three bolted routes, F5 to F6a on a hill between Dhaid and Madam. No longer being developed.

  • Roadside Crag
    Three bolted routes, F6c to F7c, on a crag on the way up to Wadi Bih from RAK.
    link to topo at the uaeclimbing blog

  • The Cleavage
    About five bolted routes, F5 to F7a, in a small canyon left of the under-construction resort road left of the entrance to Wadi Bih. No topo.

  • Dickinadozer
    Several bolted routes, F5 upwards on the large cliff opposite the Cleavage, still being developed. Will be a major venue. No topo yet.

  • Disc World
    Some moderate F4 - F5 routes near the entrance to Wadi Bih.
    link to topo at the uaeclimbing blog

  • Cascade Circus
    Two excellent two-pitch routes around F6c within Wadi Bih. No topo, but routes are obvious and the crag is in the Al Stark guide.

  • Spice World
    One excellent but badly-bolted F7b+, and a F8a, within Wadi Bih. The F7b+ route and crag is in the Al Stark guide, the F8a is undocumented.

  • Bend in the Road
    Two short routes F7a and F7c+, within Wadi Kaba Shamsi. Routes and crag are in the Al Stark guide.

  • Wadi Hilti
    Five good routes F5+ to F7b+, close to Wadi Kaba Shamsi, on good water-polished rock.
    link to topo at the uaeclimbing blog

  • Tawiyan
    Hidden cliff in a pristine atmospheric canyon, routes from F6b+, still being developed. No topo yet.

Other Oman places

  • Coco Canyon
    Three multi-pitch sport routes, F6a+ to F7b on the right side of Wadi Bani Auf, 16 km from the start of the wadi

  • Al Hamra Towers
    One multi-pitch sport route, F7a+ amidst trad routes on these spectacular towers overlooking Al Hamra town.

  • Wadi Adia
    A few bolted climbs amongst trad near Muscat. Routes and crag are in the McDonald guide.

  • the Musandum beach crag
    Several unnecessarily-bolted cracks routes to F6b by a beach, 5 minutes boat ride from Khasab or a longer hike. Bring cams and bolt-chopping gear!

last updated 4 December 2008, version 1.6. Please contact me if you have any comments or additions.
Other UAE and Oman climbing information sources include: UAE climbing blog, UAE climbing forum, Oman climbing forum

Disclaimer: rock climbing is dangerous and you will die. Do not rock climb.