Ogawayama

Climbing on Japan's best granite with Andy Donson in June 2006

Andy and I contrived to spend a long weekend at Ogawayama, by synchronising my business trip to Tokyo with his conference in Nara. In the mountains, we were looked after royally by my sister-in-law, Tomoko, and her husband Atsushi. However we onsighted the 4 hour drive out of central Tokyo to the crag in Nagano alone and unaided: a proud send! Ogawayama has superb varied rock, world-class routes and a tremendous location. Highly recommended. Neil Harrison's excellent English-language guide has all the access, camping and route beta.

Satellite view of the road to Ogawayama

highway snaking past the evil Shinjuku towers in central Tokyo

our excellent rented Nissan Cube

Atsushi and Tomoko outside their deluxe cabin and on photo duty up at the rocks.

my cams with the Roof Rocks behind.

the superb Yane Nihou face, with some routes and features marked.

Andy starting Jetstream, a stunning 5.10c slab traverse.

Toby seconding the first pitch of Jetstream, and leading the second pitch.

Andy top-roping the famous Spider's Thread, 5.11c, which takes the line of the abseil descent from Jetstream.

Andy leading Jacobs Ladder, 5.11a, on the Riceball Slab.

Toby leading Lavender, 5.10b, also on the Riceball Slab.

Andy starting River Imjun, 5.11d, then, higher on the same route. (Super Imjun - Japan's best-known hard route from the early 80s - breaks left for a few moves from the top of this route).

Toby on one of Ogawayama's easy classics: Ogawayama Layback, 5.9.

Another easy classic: Ogawayama Story, 5.9.

Andy examines the aerial start of Blues Power, 5.11c, on the Mara Iwa.

unknown climber making a high step up on the nearby classic Irregular, 5.10c.

Toby on the knife-edge summit of the Mara Iwa.